This is a guest post by Trundlemaster.
I approached my first trip to Israel with a mixture of apprehension and desire. I had a desire to see and experience some of the country, but I was apprehensive about ‘culture shock’.
Although my new wife – we married last year – had been to Israel several times before on various organised and independent trips, it was my first visit to the country and I didn’t know what to expect. I’d been given dire warnings about going, from people who had either never visited Israel or who harboured antipathy to the place. One of them even said ‘make sure that you come back with the same number of holes that you left with’ in a reference to terrorism and war.
What I found once I arrived was light years away from what the ‘know-nothings’ who get their news from the Beeb and the Guardian believe Israel is. I found a fantastic get up and go country full of people who were proud of their nation but who were polite, helpful and very kind especially when I used my rather poor Hebrew to them.
We stayed in Tel Aviv and explored the city’s restaurants and museums for some of the time and went from there to Jerusalem to visit The Kotel and to the fabulous air force museum near Beer Sheva.
We found the public transport system affordable, reliable and clean. It does take a day or two to get used to seeing armed national service personnel travelling round on the buses but that is more due to the fact that here in the UK we have been disconnected from the military due to having all volunteer armed forces, which means that the average British subject isn’t familiar with being around uniformed personnel.
Highlights of the trip apart from the Kotel were the Air Force Museum, the Haganah Musem and the Museum of the Diaspora. Jerusalem was a complete eye-opener. You can feel the power of the city’s spiritual meaning for so many, almost as soon as you step out of the bus station on Jaffa Road. To pray at the Kotel was amazing, the only way for me to describe the experience of praying there was that it was like – if it is not considered too sacrilegious – is to quote from the film Spinal Tap: ‘turning your prayer up to 11’. You really feel that the Divine Presence is strong there and it was a privilege to be there to feel that for myself.
To be there in Jerusalem after so much longing on my part was fantastic. At Seder this year the words ‘next year in Jerusalem’ will have even more meaning to me personally, having now been to Jerusalem and experienced some of the place. Leaving the place was weird, I felt that I’d left a little bit of myself behind in the city of gold and vowed to be back as soon as I could.
Yad Vashem in Jerusalem was incredibly upsetting and moving in ways that I find difficult to describe in words but I felt that I could not visit Jerusalem without seeing Yad Vashem. One of the things me that impressed me about the layout of Yad Vashem was the way you emerge from the memorial burdened by the weight of what you have seen into the sunshine and a stunning view over the hills of Jerusalem.
One of the things that most impressed me about Israel however isn’t something I saw or something I did but it was something that was missing from Israel when compared to the UK.
In the UK the media and the academic institutions seem to be dominated by people who are influenced by various types of Trotskyist thinking that exploded in academia and elsewhere after 1968 and this has contributed to the constant drip-drip of anti Zionist, and anti UK propaganda emanating from the BBC and the political establishment. This has led to a left-wing orchestrated ‘cultural cringe’ where people in the UK feel they need to apologise constantly for the UK or feel ashamed of who they are.
This I found totally absent in any intrusive way with any of the Israelis we chatted to. It was a pleasure for someone like me who has had his total fill of left-wing Jew haters to be in a ‘Land without Trots’ or at least a land where the Trots do not have the sort of influence that they do in the UK. I never thought I’d be so pleased to not hear the words ‘Socialist Worker, get your Socialist Worker here’.
People appear proud of Israel’s achievements, although sad that the nations around them refuse all offers of peace, even when it is plainly in the interest of the average person in the Arab world and for everyone else in the world for there to be peace.
I couldn’t help feeling that if Israel didn’t have to spend so much money on defending itself, it could be a major engine for growth, both economically and in human terms for the Middle East. Without the existential threats it faces, it could truly be a light unto the nations around it if only it was given the chance to do so.
We only saw a fraction of what we wanted to see as we were technically on our proper honeymoon and didn’t want to be too stressed with rushing round and round from place to place. We did feel that we deserved a bit of a rest.
This only means that there is more for us to see next time we go. It was lovely to be pampered in the hotel in Tel Aviv but having seen the quality of the food in the markets I really want to self-cater next time we go. However I will make a point of eating again at the wonderful Rochele’s dairy restaurant on Ben Yehuda Street in Tel Aviv, I’ve never tasted a vegetarian lasagne as wonderful as the one I had there.
I want to be the one laden down with groceries from Ha Carmel Market rushing back to cook a lovely dinner for my wife.
I was completely bowled over by Israel and Israelis and cannot wait to go back. Go to Israel – it’s fabulous.